Having experienced the benefits of Azelaic Acid in a product with an inelegant formula, I went hunting for more products with this amazing ingredient. Of course, I was delighted to find another that was easily accessible and didn’t cost a kidney. I’ve been using the Ezanic gel for about 8 weeks, and here is my detailed review of the product.

Brief introduction before the review:

Azelaic acid is a multitasking ingredient that has been proven to manage rosacea, acne, hyperpigmentation. It’s got antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. Yes, Niacinamide is not the only overachiever. It is effective in as low as 4% concentration but from what we’ve seen in the books (research), 15-20% is the strength prescribed for acne and rosacea, 20% for epidermal hyperpigmentation  (p.s. this has been compared to the gold standard for hyperpigmentation— Hydroquinone).

Azelaic acid is not your typical exfoliating acid like glycolic acid and other AHAs. Yes, it does have some keratolytic properties hence its ability to improve texture irregularities but, they are not the same. Both can be combined in the same skincare routine to optimize results. Although it is naturally found in wheat, barley, rye… it’s important to note that the version used in cosmetics is synthetically manufactured in the lab.

Ingredients & Indication:

Azelaic Acid 20% in a gel base. That’s all the product label tells us. Indicated for the treatment of Acne Vulgaris.

Azelaic acid 20% review Ezanic gel review

Texture & Application

Although titled gel, the formula of the Ezanic gel is a white paste that goes on creamy initially and blends into a soft semi-matte, smooth-to-feel finish. The kind you’d expect from a ‘silicone primer’ that is not loaded with silicones. I hope this makes sense? Compared to The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension, the Ezanic gel feels less matte on the skin and spreads better when applied. The formula is more elegant for sure.

Azelaic acid 20% review Ezanic gel reviewI do not experience piling with this as I do with that of The Ordinary, as explained in this post. The only time I experienced piling was when I paired it with The Ordinary’s Niacinamide serum. I adore The Ordinary but, some of their formulas are so inelegant and could use some reformulation.

The Ezanic gel can be used both day and nighttime. I use this in the AM routine cause my PM routine is extensive enough; I needed a treatment that’s safe for daytime use and doubles as an antioxidant.
As for application, it goes after water-based toners, serums, essence… before (or after) moisturizer. Depending on the other products in your skincare routine, this can be tweaked.

Efficacy of Ezanic gel

Like I mentioned earlier, depending on the strength of Azelaic Acid in your product, results may vary. Having gotten acne under control, I approached this with the intent of tackling post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). More like an additional support cause with hyperpigmentation, it takes a village. Retinoids, AHAs, tyrosinase inhibitors… you need them all on board.

Well, did it deliver?

In the first 10 days of using Ezanic gel, I skipped retinol and other brightening agents to test how good this was and boyyy, I was shook! My skin was much brighter that I had to stop using it in the center of my face and focus on the perimeter where dark spots are present. The older spots didn’t fade immediately but, the most recently formed ones faded faster.
After using it (inconsistently) for about 8 weeks (along with retinol), I can proudly say that there’s a visible improvement in hyperpigmentation. It also improved the overall texture of my skin

Azelaic acid 20% review Ezanic gel review For hyperpigmentation
Left- 26 Dec 2020; Right- 29 Jan 2021
What about Acne?

Of course, being an overachiever, I expected it to keep breakouts at bay. While using this, I noticed that I went through my period without my hormones showing off. Yup! not a single break out. The last time I experienced this luxury was with Adapalene (Differin).

Value

It comes in 15g (ugh so small, I know) but, surprisingly one tube lasted for about 4 weeks. I’m currently on the second tube. Bear in mind that I only use this once a day, and I skip it sometimes. Ya girl be tired.

This retails for NGN 6200 at Eve Beautique. Shopping outside Nigeria? I’ve only seen this on Indiamart for now.

Who can use it?

If your skin concerns could use any of the ‘benefits of azelaic acid’ listed above, I’ll say go for it. Don’t forget to patch test, though.

What about sensitive skin?

Seeing that Azelaic acid has been used to treat one of the most irritating skin conditions— rosacea, I believe sensitive skin could also benefit from it. Remember to seek advice from a professional if you’re in doubt.

Pros, Cons & Extras

I did not experience purging or any unusual breakout while using the Ezanic gel.
Sometimes, it tingles a bit after application; this effect doesn’t last up to a minute and can easily be remedied by applying it over a moisturizer.
Surprisingly, it does not itch (my skin) after application. Being a high-strength formula, I expected otherwise.
Ezanic gel is made in India by a Pharmaceutical company.

Have you tried Azelaic Acid before? What was your experience like?

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3 Comments

  1. Damilola Olakunle Reply

    Hello! Really love your comprehensive review on ezanic. I haven’t used Azelaic acid before and I want to start with Ezanic. You said it should be used under medical supervision… Does that mean it’s not safe to use (as a first timer) without consulting a dermatologist?

    • Hawwa Reply

      Hi, I’m glad you found my review useful! Exactly, for a beginner, it’s best to consult with your dermatologist or aesthetician because of the concentration (20%). In case you don’t have access to one, you could start with a 10% Azelaic Acid product like the one from The Ordinary or Naturium. When your skin is familiar with the ingredient, you can move up to 20%. Don’t forget to patch test!

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